WSDC Event - Burgundy Dinner Morey St Denis

What: Burgundy Dinner Morey St Denis Event Sold Out  
When: 10 Sep 19 ,19:00 -22:30
Where: Painters Hall EC4V 2AD map
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Guest Speaker: Toby Morrhall, Burgundy buyer for the Wine Society

“How can you govern a country that has two hundred and forty-six varieties of cheese?” So said General Charles de Gaulle (1890-1970) who was the first president of France’s fifth republic for eleven years from 1958 (Les Mots du Général, Ernest Mignon, 1962). He might have used the wines of Burgundy as a better example with the ever-changing ownership and the frequent amalgamation then splitting, then reunion of relatively small plots of land. Then, there are grands crus, premiers crus, village wines and lieux dits in well-defined areas so that it is the quality of the winemaking that finally determines what is in the bottle. It is difficult for the amateur oenophile to know where to begin.

Morey St Denis lies between Gevrey-Chambertin to the north and Chambolle-Musigny to the south in the Côtes de Nuits. Despite having four and a bit grands crus within its boundaries, somehow it has never achieved the reputation of its neighbours. This is partly because the local growers in the past, abetted by the négociants, would trade their wine as Gevrey-Chambertin (Clive Coates 2008). There are also twenty premiers crus in Morey St Denis some of which are remarkably small. The acreage of all the grands and premiers crus is 73 ha. In comparison the whole of Château Latour is 78 ha. Nevertheless, Morey St Denis produces very good wine with a distinct personality which we hope to show at this dinner.

Toby Morrhall is the enigmatic Burgundy buyer for the Wine Society. After a varied career in the wine trade he joined the Wine Society in 1992 and comments that whilst it takes about three years to get to know a wine region “with Burgundy it’s more like six”.

Louis Roederer non-vintage champagne − but with several years in the Wine Society cellars − will be our aperitif.

Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos 2012 from Billaud-Simon will marry with a starter of grilled swordfish steak with butterbean salad and sauce vierge.

With the Tournedos of beef fillet topped with pâté of foie gras we will explore:

Domaine Dujac, villages, 2009

Clos Solon Domaine Fourrier, 2005

Premier Cru Clos de la Bussiere Domaine Georges Roumier, 2005. This 2.59 ha plot is just to the southern side of the village and below Clos de Tart and Bonnes-Mares on rising ground with good drainage.

Klein Constantia Vin de Constance 2015 from South Africa will accompany the apricot and almond frangipane with pistachio ice cream and raspberry coulis. The link with France is that Napoleon, who was the emperor of the first French Empire (1804-15), during his imprisonment on British St Helena from 1816, is reported to have consumed a bottle of this wine each day to find solace. St Helena is just a stone’s throw from SA.

A glass of Taylor’s 85 will be poured with coffee and a little cheese. For those of you with turophobia, petit fours will be served.

Finally, as the 31st of October draws closer I leave you with some more bon mots from President Charles de Gaulle: “Bien entendu, on peut sauter sur sa chaise comme un cabri en disant l’Europe ! l’Europe ! l’Europe ! mais cela n’aboutit à rien et cela ne signifie rien.” – interview from presidential campaign December 1965.

- Tony Wright, Honorary Secretary

Dress code: Lounge suit

Guests: £190
Members: £180

Forthcoming events

Tuesday, 5 November 2019 – Claret Dinner at the Drapers’ Hall

Thursday, 5 December 2019 – Christmas Tasting and Raffle at the Army & Navy Club

Wednesday, 5 February 2020 – Rhône Dinner with Marcel Orford-Williams at the Apothecaries’ Hall

Tuesday, 2 June 2020 – 70th Anniversary AGM and Dinner, including ’89 Lafite and 1970 Grahams, with Sebastian Payne at the Drapers’ Hall

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