|What:||Hermitage dinner 2012|
|When:||31 Jan 12 ,19:00 -22:30|
|Where:||Churchill Room, the Carlton Club SW1A 1PJ map|
Our first event for 2012 is to celebrate the venerable wines of Jaboulet, especially Hermitage, and we will be guided by Jonathan Pedley, an entertaining speaker now celebrating 20 years as a Master of Wine.
Paul Jaboulet Aîné, Paul being the ‘elder’ of twins of the founder Antoine in the 19th century and over the years the family gained a reputation for excellence in the north Rhône valley. In 2005 the business was sold to the Frey family, owners of Ch. La Lagune, probably because of French inheritance taxes, although this is debatable.
Our first wine is Saint Péray La Sauvagere, 2010, not a ‘sparkler’, but a still white wine from a region where today’s growers have switched from their traditional specialisation. Caroline Frey, the new owner of Jaboulet, has used all marsanne to produce a lovely wine with honey and lemon fruit, crisp and fresh. Possibly not your usual aperitif, but a wine from Paul Jaboulet Aîné!
We will then have Hermitage Blanc Chevalier de Sterimberg 2001, named after the knight Gaspard de Sterimberg who built the chapel of St Christophe in 1235 on the vineyard’s hillside. Two thirds marsanne, one third roussane grape, we can expect some honey and lemon on the nose, followed by a full, impressive, and complex palate. This wine improves with keeping some ten years or so.
On to the red wines, and probably a wine many of us have tasted, Crozes Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert 2000, which is still a delight. Full bodied, the tannins have receded giving some sweetness and berries on the palate.
Hermitage Monier de La Sizeranne 1998 from Chapoutier is a wine in our reserves which we should try. Once the flagship wine of Chapoutier, it was purchased just as Jaboulet were experiencing a change of fortunes. From syrah grapes on the Hermitage site, dark fruits and soft tannins should prevail.
We will now have two vintages of Hermitage La Chapelle, 1997, and 1995, and we have an opportunity to compare and contrast these two wines made before the death of Gérard Jaboulet, when critics felt that quality declined. These are wines for the long term, deeply coloured, smoky on the nose with a sweet entry on the palate. Lots of fruit and structure with a long balanced aftertaste.
To finish on a winter’s evening, we shall have some vintage port. Warre’s 1983, rich, sweet and mouth-filling, a lovely way to close while Jonathan Pedley answers your questions.
Dress Code: Lounge Suits
Date for the Diary:
1st May: Château Margaux Dinner, at the Drapers’ Hall with Sebastian Payne MW
Vintages available from The Wine Society:
Crozes-Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert 2005
Crozes-Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert 2006
Hermitage La Chapelle, Jaboulet Aîné, 2000
Hermitage La Chapelle, Jaboulet Aîné, 2007